Ball Python
Python regius
Species History
The Ball Python is originally native to woodlands and savannas in Western Africa. The species is extremely well known due to its popularity in the pet industry. The snake gets its name from its tendency to curl into a ball as a response to fear.
In its natural ecosystem, the species is best described as an ambush hunter. Like other pythons and boas, their diet can vary wildly. The snakes have been documented eating amphibians, other snakes, lizards, as well as birds and small mammals. Interestingly, there appears to be a difference in diet based on snake sex. Males primarily feed on birds while females primarily prey on mammals.
It is the smallest of the python species in Africa. The snake reaches a maximum adult length of 6ft long although most will only reach 4-5 ft. Females are larger than males. Generally speaking, a healthy snake will reach 2 ft in length when it is about 3 years old. The snake’s average lifespan is around 30 years old when cared for correctly with the longest living individual documented living over 60 years old.
Like many other snakes, Ball Python’s are crepuscular, meaning they are most active in the hours of dawn or dusk. Contrary to popular belief, the snake is best described as semi-aborbal. Many sources claim the snake is exclusively terrestrial, but a study done in 2005 suggests that male snakes use the arboreal niche more than their female counterparts.
Care Principles
Enclosure Set-up
For a hatchling sized snake, a 10 gallon tank is acceptable. As the snake grows into an adult, it will need to move on to a 40 gallon and eventually a 75 gallon tank once it has reached its maximum length.
Your enclosure should contain the following:
- A hiding place – A “Half Log” is a great option. This hiding place should be large enough for the snake to completely conceal itself but not so large that there is lots of extra space.
- A branch or other climbing structure – your snake will need things to climb and places to rest
- Substrate – We recommend a natural soil mixture to help increase humidity and create a more natural habitat for the snake. You can see our guide for this mixture here. Alternatively, many experts recommend using paper towels, newspaper, or shredded fir bark. Avoid other wood shavings as there are health concerns if the snake ingests them accidentally while eating.
- Basking Light – Temperature is very important to snake health. This is described in more detail below.
- Optionally: Heating Pad – Temperature is very important to snake health. This is described in more detail below.
- Aquarium thermometers – Usually inexpensive, you will need two, one to use 1″ above the enclosure floor, and the other 1″ above the floor in the basking area.
Temperature and Humidity
Snakes, unlike mammals and other endotherms, are unable to self regulate their internal temperature without the help of external heat sources. For your snake to remain healthy, we recommend the following temperature guidelines.
- The ambient air temperature must remain between 75-85 degrees fahrenheit during the day, dropping to 75 degrees fahrenheit during the night.
- A cool spot (side) of the snake’s enclosure should be maintained around 70 degrees giving the snake a choice for thermoregulation.
- A basking place should be provided, at a temperature of 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
To keep the snake’s enclosure in this temperature range, you have a number of options. We recommend an incandescent light bulb on a daylight timer to create a basking area and create the thermal gradient in the cage. If temperatures fall below the desired range outlined above, a heat pad or ceramic heater can be used to raise nighttime temperatures. Once in place, adjust the intensity of the height of the bulb (and heat pad if using one) to fine tune the temperature to the above ranges. Keep in mind that as the seasons change you will need to adjust your heating strategy.
Diet and Feeding
A healthy Ball Python will typically eat every 10 to 21 days. When considering feeding frequency, there are a number of factors to consider such as age, time of year, and size of meals. Hatchlings will eat small pre-killed mice with individuals moving on to pre-killed adult mice or 2-3 day old rats as they grow. Adult pythons should be fed small to large rats or quail based on their size.
When you first bring your snake home, allow the snake to acclimate and do not attempt to feed it for the first couple of weeks to month. If your snake doesn’t eat for several months, it is best to bring your snake to a reptile vet to best remedy the problem.
Before feeding your snake, be sure that the “prey” item is completely dethawed. Move your snake to a separate feeding container free of any loose substrate such as pine or aspen shavings. This feeding container can be much smaller than the snake’s usual tank.
Once the prey item is defrosted at room temperature and the snake is placed in a secure feeding container (from which it cannot escape), hold the rodent by the tail using a pair of reptile feeding tongs and dangle it in front of your snake. Your snake will strike at the rodent and attempt to constrict it, at which point the snake should be left in a quiet distraction free area until it can finish the meal.
Water is just as if not more important than food. Your snake should always have a clean water source available in its enclosure. Water should be changed regularly (every couple of days) and should the snake defecate or otherwise infect its water source, it should be cleaned and replaced as soon as possible.
If the snake refuses to eat, discard the prey item, wait two weeks and try again. If your snake spits up its prey item, put the prey item into the fridge. Check the enclosure temperature and be sure the snake is in a quiet place to eat. Try again the next day. If the snake is still spitting up its food and you have followed these guidelines, bring it to a vet.
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Misc.
Handling
At first, some Ball Pythons can be “standoff-ish”. When first handling your snake, it may attempt to move away from you and seem generally uncomfortable. If the snake curls into its signature ball defensive posture, let the snake be and do not attempt to force it out of this posture. Consistent handling will build trust and your snake should become more comfortable being held.
Pythons are known to wrap themselves tightly around their owners arm or neck. This is usually normal behavior and should not be cause for concern. To remove the snake, unwrap it by firmly but gently grabbing its tail and slowly unwinding it. Do not grab its head.
Never make sudden movements or try to guide/pull your snake by its head. Be especially careful when handling if your snake has just eaten. We recommend giving your snake a couple of days after eating before handling it again as some snakes can “regurgitate” their food if they become nervous enough.
As with all snakes, if your snake is in a new situation (for example it’s being introduced to a new person) go slow and give the snake time to adjust to its new surroundings. If your snake seems distressed, give it a rest and try again later.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal and healthy process. As their skin becomes worn and too small, a snake “sheds” the old layer which is replaced by a fresh layer right underneath it. As your snake prepares to shed, you may notice that its eyes become a whitish blue and its body will become duller in color. When its eyes go back to clear, it is ready to shed.
Proper hydration is critical when the time to shed finally arrives. Many experts recommend placing the snake in a slightly more than room temperature “bath” to soak. As long as the snake has access to clean water (as it always should), you shouldn’t have any complications during the shedding process.
Cleaning
Proper enclosure cleaning is key to maintaining your pets health and wellbeing. Whenever your snake defectats, remove the affected area of substrate immediately. Every 2-3 months you should complete a deep clean of the tank. During this process, remove the snake and move it to a separate container (can be the same one you use to feed it). Follow our cleaning process outlined here.
Common Concerns
If the snake fails to eat for an extended time period (over a month) or begins to behave abnormally, it may be a sign that the snake is sick. Like humans, illness can affect reptiles. Commonly a result of a bacteria or parasite infection, your reptile may need the care of a reptile vet professional. Other possible symptoms include a change in fecal/urine matter, fluid excrement near the eyes or mouth, or any visible parasites on the surface of the snake’s skin. If you notice any of the above, it’s best you contact a reptile vet to help you best navigate the situation.