Corn Snake
Pantherophis guttatus
Species History
The corn snake is originally native to portions of North America, most commonly found in what is now modern Florida and other southeastern states. They can now be found invasively across parts of the United States and have been reported in Mexico and the Cayman Islands. In the wild, corn snakes prefer deciduous forests, pine barrens, rocky hillsides and farm areas.
Contrary to the popular opinion that corn snakes are nocturnal (most active at night), corn snakes are crepuscular, meaning they are most active in the hours of dawn or dusk. Most are ground dwelling, although semi-aboral behavior has been reported in some individuals.
Like the rest of the Elahpe family (rat snakes) wild corn snakes eat a varied diet. Younger individuals typically feed on small invertebrates and vertebrates such as crickets, small lizards, and small frogs. Adults move onto small rodents and birds. They kill their prey by constriction.
In the wild, the snake’s average lifespan is around 10 years old with some individuals in captivity living to 40. Hatchings range from 9-13 inches and adults can grow up to 5 feet long. Most adults range from 2.5 to 4 feet long.
Care Principles
Enclosure Set-up
You’ll want at least a 40 gallon tank to house your corn snake. You can go bigger, but do not go smaller. It is critical that this tank has a locking top with a fine screen. It is not uncommon for snakes to find an opening and push their heads out.
Your enclosure should contain the following:
- A hiding place – there are a wide variety of hide boxes available for snakes, you’ll want something that is dark and large enough for the snake to conceal itself.
- A branch or other climbing structure – your snake will need things to climb and places to rest. Provide as many options as possible.
- Substrate – We recommend our DIY nature substrate. Alternatively pine or aspen shavings can be used.
- Incandescent heat lamp. Temperature is very important to snake health and is discussed in more detail below.
- Optionally: UVB Light – A UVB producing halogen bulb (preferred) or fluorescent tube is critical to maintain pet health. If your pet’s enclosure gets full sun without UV filtering glass this is not entirely necessary.
- Optionally: You may need a ceramic heat lamp or reptile heating pad to keep the correct temperature in the enclosure – A ceramic heat lamp is preferred. Temperature is very important to snake health and is discussed in more detail below.
- Optionally: Aquarium thermometer – Usually inexpensive, you’ll want to place this thermometer between 1-2 inches from the bottom of the tank above the heating pad
Temperature and Humidity
Snakes, unlike mammals and other endotherms, are unable to self regulate their internal temperature without the help of external heat sources. For your snake to remain healthy, it will need a standard reptile heat lamp (on a 12 hour timer) placed above half of its enclosure. You may also need to use a ceramic heater or heat pad to keep the enclosure in the proper temperature range. Generally speaking, the following temperature guidelines are recommend:
- A basking area must be provided at the temperature of 90F during the day
- A “cool” side of the enclosure at a temperature of 75F
Diet and Feeding
A healthy corn snake will usually eat every 9-12 days with occasional fasting periods of up to three weeks. When considering feeding frequency, there are a number of factors to consider such as age, time of year, and size of meals. They should only be fed pre killed rodents (mice or rats) sized appropriately for the snake’s age and size. Hatchlings will start on 1-2 day old mice. As the snake grows larger it can move on to small adult mice and 1-2 day old rats.
Before feeding your snake, be sure that the “prey” item is completely dethawed. Move your snake to a separate feeding container free of any loose substrate such as pine or aspen shavings. Snakes have been known to accidentally ingest substrate chips which could cause health issues. Additionally, this will prevent your snake from associating its main tank with feeding, lowering the risk of striking when being removed from the tank. This feeding container can be much smaller than the snake’s usual tank.
Once the prey item is defrosted at room temperature and the snake is placed in a secure feeding container (from which it cannot escape), hold the rodent by the tail using a pair of reptile feeding tongs and dangle it in front of your snake. Your snake will strike at the rodent and attempt to constrict it, at which point the snake should be left in a quiet distraction free area until it can finish the meal.
Water is just as if not more important than food. Your snake should always have a clean water source available in its enclosure. Water should be changed regularly (every couple of days) and should the snake defecate or otherwise infect its water source, it should be cleaned and replaced as soon as possible.
If the snake refuses to eat, put the prey item into the fridge. Check the enclosure temperature and be sure the snake is in a quiet place to eat. Try again the next day. If your snake spits up its prey item or refuses to eat a second time, discard the prey item, wait two weeks and try again. If the snake continues to spit up its food or refuse to eat and you have followed these guidelines, bring it to a vet.
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Misc.
Handling
Corn snakes are typically calm snakes that seem to be “curious”. When handling, it is not uncommon for the snake to repeatedly attempt to move in one direction. Gently guide the snake in the direction you would like it to go. Never make sudden movements or jerk the snake. Always provide the snake will plenty of support to its body without trying to constrict its movements. Do not hold the snake from behind its head.
It is not uncommon for snakes to become “nervous” in new situations. If you just got your snake or it’s being introduced to a new person, go slow and give the snake time to adjust to its new surroundings. We recommend keeping handling sessions brief at first, only increasing the duration as your snake becomes acclimated.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal and healthy process. As their skin becomes worn and too small, a snake “sheds” the old layer which is replaced by a fresh layer right underneath it. As your snake prepares to shed, you may notice that its eyes become a whitish blue and its body will become duller in color. When its eyes go back to clear, it is ready to shed.
Proper hydration is critical when the time to shed finally arrives. Many experts recommend placing the snake in a slightly more than room temperature “bath” to soak. As long as the snake has access to clean water (as it always should), you shouldn’t have any complications during the shedding process.
Cleaning
Proper enclosure cleaning is key to maintaining your pets health and wellbeing. Whenever your snake defectats, remove the affected area of substrate immediately. Every 1 month if using wood shavings or 3 months if using our DIY natural soil substrate, you should complete a deep clean of the tank.
During this process, remove the snake and move it to a separate container (can be the same one you use to feed it). Follow our cleaning process outlined here.
Common Concerns
If the snake fails to eat for an extended time period (over a month) or begins to behave abnormally, it may be a sign that the snake is sick. Like humans, illness can affect reptiles. Commonly a result of a bacteria or parasite infection, your reptile may need the care of a reptile vet professional. Other possible symptoms include a change in fecal/urine matter, fluid excrement near the eyes or mouth, or any visible parasites on the surface of the snake’s skin. If you notice any of the above, it’s best you contact a reptile vet to help you best navigate the situation.